Sunday, October 31, 2010

Beginner Tips on Making Compost


In the world of gardening, compost is the star of the show. This does not come as a surprise since compost is the most cost-efficient and eco-friendly fertilizer and pesticide rolled into one. Plus, it certainly helps that compost and its tea are very easy to make, requiring only your household trash, simple equipment and a little manual labor.

With the following tips on making these organic materials, you are sure to get the most benefits out of them!

Measure by Volume

One of the secrets of successful compost making is to measure all the ingredients by volume. This way, you can achieve just the right temperature since your mass is just at the right volume. Usually, one cubic yard is the right volume when making compost.

Maintain Dampness

You can tell if a compost pile is too wet or too dry by taking a handful of compost and squeezing it as hard as you possibly can. If you only get one or two drops out of it, then it is just right. Any more or less than that amount means that it is too wet or too dry, respectively. Obviously, if it is too dry, add more water and if it too wet, let it dry out.

Add as Necessary

Balance is also the key to the success of the compost pile. You can either add in small amounts either green materials like shredded newspapers and kitchen leftovers or brown materials like wood shavings and dried lawn clippings. Why small additions only? Well, because these do not significantly affect the ratio between green and brown materials, thus, making it possible to adjust as necessary without making too many mistakes.

Let It Cook

And when we say cook, we mean maintaining the right temperature. Keep in mind that almost as soon as the pile is made, it will heat up and the microorganisms will start breaking down the green and brown materials.

The ideal temperature should be between 135° F where the human and plant pathogens are killed and 160° F where the beneficial organisms are also killed.


You can use either a long-stemmed thermometer or a turkey thermometer. Just make sure that you take several (2-3 will be good) readings from at least 3 points in the pile and that you stick the thermometer into the center.
You should turn the pile when the temperature reaches 155° F, which will mix the cooler materials on the outside of the pile to its center as well as introduce oxygen into it. You will need to do the turning every other day for the first week so as to maintain the 135° to 155° F range.
You will know when it is ready when the center of the pile is cool to the touch, which should be in about 6-8 weeks. However, you should be alert to any bad smells coming from the pile since it is bad business for you and your garden.

Your compost should have an earthy but pleasant smell to it instead of rotting flesh. You may need to introduce more aeration or more materials into the mix.With well-matured compost, you are assured that your vegetables and other plants will grow in abundance, all other things like weather being favorable. Plus, you saved on the cost commercial fertilizers, too.








Whitney is an expert gardener that owns a greenhouse manufacturing company and writes articles for his own article directory called the Garden of Articles.


Saturday, October 30, 2010

Friday, October 29, 2010

Preparing For Your Spring Color Explosion

I was in a home improvement store the other day and was thinking Wow the Christmas decorations should be going up in a week or so. I know that sounds a little bit crazy as it is only the 2nd week of September but I could not help to wonder as I was looking at all the Halloween Merchandise on Display. Seems like the stores are getting earlier and earlier when it comes to merchandising for the next big holiday. That is what led me to write this article.

The months of March Through May are usually the most colorful times of the year in the garden. The Spring flowering bulbs are a blaze with a riot of color. Early perennials are blooming and the early Spring flowering shrubs are wearing their coats of many colors. The only problem is that there are a lot of people that don’t realize that the tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinth, Allium, and all the other spring flowering bulbs need to be planted just before Halloween to get that great spring color show. You would not believe the amount of times I get asked where you can get some of them flowers to plant every spring.

Just as impressive are the spring flowering shrubs azaleas and rhododendrons are well known as is one of the earliest to bloom with an explosion of bright yellow the forsythia. Vanhoutte spirea commonly called bridal veil puts on a spectacular show of pure white that looks like a giant snowball. The absolute most popular though has to be the lilac. It comes and a variety of colors and give off magnificent scents. Now is the time to be planting your shrubs in early fall where the cool wet weather will help them to get established roots before winter.

To plant your shrubs dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball then mix in a couple of shovel fulls of compost to the soil. Set the plant in the ground with the top of the root ball even with the soil line. Back-fill with the soil tamping to eliminate air pockets and water well. Be sure the plant stays moist till the ground freezes.

To prepare your flower beds for spring bulbs work up the soil and mix in a couple of inches of compost. Dig it in at least 6 “. Once the bed is prepared you are ready to plant your bulbs. A good rule of thumb is to multiply the width of the bulb by 2 to get the right depth to plant the bulbs at. Remember to consider height of the plant when planting don’t hide the crocus behind the daffodils or you won’t be able to enjoy them. Another hint is to plant bulbs in cluster they look more natural and are more interesting that way.

So now is the time to get started on your spring flowering garden.


View the original article here

Thursday, October 28, 2010

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Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Worm Factory 360 WF360G Worm Composter - Green

Worm Factory 360 WF360G Worm Composter - GreenThe Worm Factory® 360 composts with worms to allow you to turn your kitchen scraps, paper waste and cardboard into nutrient-rich soil for your plants. It can be used indoors or outdoors allowing year round, odor free production.

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Composting and Their Structures


Selecting a structure for your compost pile not all that important, what is important is that you are going to be composting.

Composting has several requirements that need to be in place in order to decompose properly. The requirements are size of the compost pile, air, fragment size, dry matter, heat, green matter and moisture. To start with you need to make sure your structure will provide for the minimum compost size. A compost container structure or pile that is too small won't be able to create enough heat for the organic matter to decompose. The minimum size of you compost pile, in order for it to decompose properly, should be about seven cubic feet. Seven cubic feet is approximately 55 gallons or 208 liters.

A compost structure is not necessary for composting but it will prevent the wind and pillaging animals from carrying anything away. If you live in a rural area that is not very populated you can get by with an open compost pile. A compost structure is a necessity if you live in a high density urban area. You can purchase a structure or you can build your own. Many people will cover their compost piles with plastic in order to prevent the outer layers from drying out too much. You will need to remove the covers occasionally to add more water, plant material and to aerate the pile.

Structures built of wire can have drying problems. This all depends on how many sides are exposed and whether they are on the windward side or not. Wire mesh compost bins are generally the most versatile of compost bins. They are fairly simple to build and maintain. Your compost will be well aerated, it is easy to move, resistant to rodents, easier to manipulate the finished compost, inexpensive to build, and contact with your soil for microorganisms and earthworms.You will often have to use plastic covers or tarps with using a wire bin.

Compact plastic compost bins work well for small yards that don't have a lot of plant wastes. Some of these structures are strictly vertical where you add fresh material to the top and your finished compost is removed from a drawer at the bottom. For this particular structure you will need an aeration tool to reach inside to stir the contents on a regular basis. The plastic compost bins are available through garden centers, some garden nurseries, catalogs, and on-line. If you decide to use a metal barrel for composting, you will have to drill holes to allow air to enter. You will also have to turn the barrel on its side to roll it for mixing and aerating compost.

A tumbler compost bin is a structure that has a drum that is placed between vertical uprights and you need to manually turn the compost tumbler for mixing. They are easy to mix and turn, the compost will be well aerated, you won't have the rodents and it is very easy to move around.

Fixed compost containers are stationary, and are usually situated in a permanent location. The materials that are used for building are usually blocks, brick, wire, or wood. They will have plenty of contact with your soil for microorganisms and earthworms, and are very easy to camouflage.

The multiple compost bins work is based on moving your compost from one bin to the next. Once the first bin's compost has been filled and has decomposed, you then turn it into the second and so on to the third bin. Most of the finished compost will now be in the last bin, and you can start using it for your garden starting at the bottom of the pile. Your compost will have plenty of contact with your soil for microorganisms and earthworms, they can easily be camouflaged, easier to turn compost for aeration, and it is much easier to work with large quantities of compost.

A Freestanding compost mixer is convenient in that it is easy to build and maintain. You can add your organic material as needed. They are not expensive to build, will have plenty of contact with your soil for microorganisms and earthworms, it won't take much effort to maintain it, and you can change its location as needed. 








Barbara is testing her skills at composting and enjoying the research behind it. Many of her articles pertain to the garden and the great outdoors. Come and visit us at http://www.gardenersgardensupplies.com for more interesting ideas and ways to plant.


Tuesday, October 26, 2010

RotoComposter Compost Tumbler

RotoComposter Compost TumblerThe EZ Composter will allow you to turn your scrap vegetables, grass clippings, and leaves into ready to use compost within just a couple of weeks. This composter allows you to easily turn and maintain an environment conducive to quickly breaking down the material that is contained in the barrel. The composting drum is created out of molded recycled polyethylene plastic which is positioned on the turning base and holds 12 cubic feet of material. This size drum is ideal for heat generation and quick material breakdown. In order to get the most out of your compost barrel, you need to turn the compost regularly. The large capacity compost drum rotates on a stable base providing quick and easy mixing. Just turn it about once a week to keep oxygen, nutrients, microorganisms and moisture evenly distributed throughout the developing batch. Glide posts on the base allows the composting drum to

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7 Factors Needed for a Compost Pile


Compost, made from decomposed grass clippings, leaves, twigs, and branches, becomes a dark, crumbly mixture of organic matter.

Learn how composting works. Even a newbie to composting can make good quality compost. It can be compared to cooking as art or part science. The following 7 factors will help you master the art of composting.

1. Materials

After a time anything that was once alive will naturally decompose. But, not all organic items should be composted for the home. To prepare compost, organic material, microorganisms, air, water, and a small amount of nitrogen are needed.

These items are safe to compost at home:

* grass clippings

* trimmings from hedges

* vegetable scraps

* leaves

* potting soil that has grown old

* twigs

* coffee filters with coffee grounds

* tea bags

* weeds that have not went to seed

* plant stalks

These items are Not safe to compost at home:

* weeds that have went to seed

* dead animals

* pet feces

* bread and grains

* meat

* grease

* cooking oil

* oily foods

*diseased plants

2. What To Do To Make It Work

There are small forms of plant and animal life which break down the organic material. This life is called microorganisms. From a minute amount of garden soil or manure comes plenty of microorganisms.

Nitrogen, air, and water will provide a favorable environment for the microorganisms to make the compost. Air circulation and water will keep the microorganisms healthy and working. The nitrogen feeds the tiny organisms. You may have to add a small amount of nitrogen to the pile.

Putting on too much nitrogen can kill microbes and too much water causes insufficient air in the pile. You just cannot add too much air.

3. Beneficial Microorganisms

Bacteria are the most effective compost makers in your compost pile. They are the first to break down plant tissue. Then comes the fungi and protozoans to help with the process. The arthropodes, like centipedes, beetles, millipedes and worms, bring in the finishing touches to complete the composting.

4. Smaller is Better

The materials will break down faster if the microorganisms have more surface area to eat. Chopping your garden materials with a chipper, shredder, or lawnmower will help them decompose faster.

5. Size of The Pile

The activity of millions of microorganisms generates heat in the compost pile but a minimum size 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot is needed for a hot, fast composting pile. Piles that are any larger may hamper the air supply needed in the pile for the microorganisms.

6. Moisture and Aeration

If you can imagine a wet squeezed out sponge with its many air pockets, then this would be the ideal enviroment for the microorganisms in the pile to function at their best. Pay attention while your pile is composting, to the amount of rain or a drought you may have. Water in a drought and maybe turn the pile in a lot of rainy days. The extremes of these two may upset the balance of the pile. The use of a pitchfork would come in handy at this time.

7. Temperature and Time

Keep your pile between 110F and 160F and the beneficial bacteria will love it. Not too cool nor too hot.

The temperature will rise over several days if you keep a good ratio of carbon and nitrogen, maintain lots of surface area within a large volume of material, and maintain adequate moisture and aeration.

-Importance of Compost-

+Compost has nutrients, but it is not a complete fertilizer.

+Compost provides nutrients in the soil until plants need to use them.

+ It loosens and aerates clay soils

+ Retains water in sandy soils.

-Using the Compost-

+ A soil amendment, mix 2 to 5 inches of compost into gardens each year before planting.

+ A potting mixture, add one part compost to two parts potting soil.

+ Make your own potting mixture by using equal parts of compost and sand or perlite.

+ A mulch, prodcast 2 to 4 inches of compost around annual flowers and vegetables, and up to 5 inches around your trees and shrubs.

+ A top dressing, mix finely sifted compost with sand and sprinkle evenly over lawns.

The final thing I would suggest once you have mastered the art of composting is to look very seriously at making your very own aerated compost tea. This elixir will give you results that are hard to believe.








James has been a gardening enthusiast for 40 years and has converted to organic gardening for 10 years. To learn more about organic gardening go to: http://www.basic-info-4-organic-fertilizers.com


Monday, October 25, 2010

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Make Your Own Fairy Garden

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Saturday, October 23, 2010

Rain Wizard 40 Rain Barrel in Black

Rain Wizard 40 Rain Barrel in BlackRW40-BLK When drought sets in and rain is short, rain barrels can provide that precious water you need for your lawn and garden. The Rain Wizard 40 can provide up to 40 gallons of pure, unchlorinated water when municipalities declare periods of low water usage. During heavy rain falls, a typical roof can produce hundreds of gallons of water. By saving that water, you can reduce your average water usage by up to 40pct. With those kinds of savings, the Rain Wizard 40 can pay for itself in just a few seasons. The Rain Wizard 40 features an attractive faux oak barrel design so it naturally fits in with your landscape. And the wide variety of colors allows you to even further match your barrel to your home and yard without standing out. Its plastic screen mesh is newly designed to keep out bugs, animals, and debris while still being easy to remove for cleaning and maintenance and is gentle on skin. A front side overflow keeps water from flooding against your outside wall. The flat-back design is one of the most convenient features as it allows your barrel to sit right up against your home so you don't have to worry about purchasing excess downspout parts. Features: -40 Rain barrel in black. -Rain Wizard Collection. -40 gallon capacity, faux oak, rain barrel. -Made of UV resistant resin; will not fade for years. -Linkable to other barrels for increased capacity using separately sold linking kit. -Resistant to rust, mold, mildew, and rotting. -High quality brass spigot for hose hook-up and overflow spout. -Screen to keep out debris, insects, animals, and children. -Dimensions: 29'' H x 22'' W x 22'' D.

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The Compost Specialist: The Essential Guide to Creating and Using Garden Compost, and Using Potting and Seed Composts (Specialist Series)

The Compost Specialist: The Essential Guide to Creating and Using Garden Compost, and Using Potting and Seed Composts (Specialist Series)

In our ecologically aware times, composting is one smart way to minimize our carbon footprint and help the earth. This new entry in the highly successful Specialist series gives gardeners all the guidance they need to start making, storing, and using their own compost. It offers Information on different types of compost and their ingredients, advice on constructing a compost bin, and detailed explanations of wormeries, green manuring, and seed and potting composts. There’s no better or easier-to-follow guide for the eco-smart gardener!

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Friday, October 22, 2010

Soilsaver Classic Composter

Soilsaver Classic ComposterSoilSavers Compost Bin saves money by reducing landfill cost, hauling cost and curbside pickup and can recycle up to 30% of your household waste. It produces rich organic soil for healthier plants and gardens. Now you can do your part to not only help the environment, but also your family with the SoilSaver.


Soil produced is natures' own fertilizer & soil conditioner

Includes free composting guide "A Sense of Humus"

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Design A Patio Garden

This unique Design A Patio Garden Manual and Workbook package will help clients to design their dream patio garden.


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Thursday, October 21, 2010

ECO Kitchen Collector Carbon Filters ( Set of 3 )

ECO Kitchen Collector Carbon Filters ( Set of 3 )The use of carbon filters significantly reduces any smells while waiting to bring kitchen scraps to your outside composter. Filters should be replacement every 3 months for best results.

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The Organic Gardening Secrets

covers nearly every bit of information about organic gardening: From planning to designing... From understanding your soil to improving it... From choosing your plants to planting them... From tending your garden to harvesting your crops


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Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Composting Recycles Vegetable Garden Wastes


To make next year's vegetable garden even better than this year we have a few chores to do in the fall. If you take care of things at the end of the growing season, you'll have less disease to worry about and starting off next year will be easier. When the tomato plants stop flowering and when their foliage turns brown, they're done. This is the time to harvest the last tomatoes and dig out the dying plants. Hopefully, all your hard work paid off in abundant and tasty fruits. But what do you do with the leftover plant parts?

The old foliage and bad fruits can be burned, especially if disease is suspected. Do your tomatoes have an off-color? Maybe they're black or just spotted with black. Are they rotting on the vine? Do the leaves have a mottled look or are they spotted with brown or black dots? In any case burning the old foliage from your garden at the end of the growing season is one remedy for starting disease-free in the spring. Viruses and bacteria and all kinds of blight problems can be taken care of by burning the dying vegetation.

Of course, some neighborhoods won't allow burning and sometimes it's just not practical, so instead try composting. Compost temperatures can get high enough to kill disease-causing bugs. Many closed system compost bins are available on the market in case you don't have room for a great pile of decaying leaves and garden wastes. These tumbler-type bins really speed up the composting time and as an added bonus they keep the smells inside.

The worst way of getting rid of garden vegetation is to bag it up and place it at the curb for trash pickup. Does that stuff in the bag go into a landfill? What a waste of time and effort, not to mention petroleum products in the bags and to fuel the trash pickup truck. Why waste all those good nutrients? With all the money spent on plastic trash bags and trash pickup fees, one could easily save up for a compost bin.

Compost has been called black gold because it is so valuable to the vegetable plants in your garden. If you haven't tried composting your vegetable garden wastes, please give it a try. You'll be surprised at the results and you'll be helping to reduce your dependence on petroleum, too. Once you set up a composting system you can use it all season long to take care of kitchen scraps, plant trimmings, yard waste and leftovers from the garden.

Be kind to the environment by composting your garden wastes. Instead of putting those excess nutrients in a landfill where they will likely never be useful again, help nature out by recycling those old plants into compost. Blending compost into your garden soil will add nutrients and boost the fertility of your soil for next year's garden.








Mary Petersen is an organic gardener who loves to grow vegetables and flowers right in the front yard. While tending her garden Mary can be seen using her http://bestcompactbinoculars.com/ to look at butterflies and other cool insects. Visit her latest gardening adventure at http://usethatherb.com/ and learn about using herbs.


Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Herb Garden Answers

Everything you need to know to grow your own herb garden. Herb Garden Answers also covers harvesting and using your herbs for culinary, medicinal and aromatic needs.


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Monday, October 18, 2010

Composting To A Successful Garden


Have you ever had really great soil for gardening around your house? Few do. In my case, the clay-like soil prevented good water drainage and was difficult for cultivating new plants. At other times the sand content was too high, providing the opposite problem - water retention. Additionally, a proper soil nutrient for great plants was missing. One could replace all the soil - a very expensive time consuming process, build raised beds or work to improve existing conditions. To do this, composting is the answer.

Composting is the decomposition of plant remains and other once-living materials to make an earthy, dark, crumbly substance that is excellent for adding to houseplants or enriching garden soil. It is a great way to help the environment. Composting is nature's process of recycling decomposed organic materials into a rich soil known as compost.

Composting is a lot like cooking, and the easiest compost recipe calls for blending parts of green or wet material, high in nitrogen and brown or dry material, high in carbon.

Materials - Materials that are excellent for composting are kitchen waste, like coffee grounds, wastes, things you might throw down the garbage disposal. Meat, bones, eggs, cheese, fats and oils are not recommended for backyard composting because they attract animals. Composting materials are divided into two types, green and brown. Green materials include green leafy plant residues like weeds, grass clippings, vegetable tops and flower clippings. Brown materials include fall leaves, straw, sawdust, wood chips and shredded newspapers. To speed up decomposition, use two-parts green material to one-part brown material. For best results, mix materials high in nitrogen such as clover, fresh grass clippings, and livestock manure with those high in carbon such as dried leaves.

Compost Bin - First, choose a location for your compost bin. Place the bin at least 20 feet away from the nearest house. Avoid placing the bin against a tree or wooden building; the compost could cause the wood to decay. Bins can be built from scrap lumber, old pallets, snow fence, chicken wire, or concrete blocks. When building a composting bin, such as with chicken wire, scrap wood, or cinder blocks, be sure to leave enough space for air to reach the pile. Usually when building a composting bin, one side is left open or can be opened to facilitate turning the materials. Once your bin is in place, you can begin immediately to fill it with yard wastes and kitchen scraps. While a bin will help contain the pile, it is not absolutely necessary - some prefer to compost in a large open area.

Process - Basically, backyard composting is an acceleration of the same process nature uses. If left alone, these same materials will eventually break down, decompose and produce soil rich materials. Eventually, the rotting leaves are returned to the soil, where living roots can finish the recycling process by reclaiming the nutrients from the decomposed leaves. Home composting provides ideal conditions to greatly reduce the time it takes

Cooking refers to the process where the compost heats up and breaks down, which is necessary before you can use it as soil additive in the garden and on your house plants. The cooking process takes about 4-8 weeks once you stop adding to the bin. Don't be surprised by the heat of the pile or if you see worms, both of which are part of the decomposition process. If you want to accelerate the process, turn it every four days, but more frequently than that is not recommended.

Carbon - Carbon and Nitrogen are the essential elements of a compost pile. Carbon rich materials are referred to as "browns". Carbon-rich, relatively low-nutrient material are slow to decay. The rate at which breakdown occurs depends on several factors - oxygenation, temperature, water content, surface area size, and the carbon to nitrogen ratio Soak high carbon materials with water before composting. Alternate six to eight inch layers of high carbon materials such as leaves and other dry plant debris, with layers of high nitrogen material such as grass clippings, kitchen waste or manure.

Nitrogen - Nitrogen is the most important food nutrient, because a nitrogen shortage drastically slows the composting process. Brown materials composted alone require supplemental nitrogen to feed the decomposing bacteria. Greens are quick to rot and they provide important nitrogen and moisture. Add one-quarter to one-half cup nitrogen fertilizer per bushel of brown material. If you are low on high-nitrogen material, you can add a small amount of commercial fertilizer containing nitrogen. In other words, the ingredients placed in the pile should contain 25 to 30 times as much carbon as nitrogen. Some ingredients with higher nitrogen content are green plant material such as crop residues, hay, grass clippings, animal manures.

Manure - Manure may be used to increase your compost piles nitrogen supply. Animal manure should only be collected from vegetarian animals, such as horses, cows, sheep, poultry, etc. Sheep and cattle manure don't drive the compost heap to as high a temperature as poultry or horse manure, so the heap takes longer to produce the finished product.

Moisture - Moisture and oxygen are important factors in the composting process as both influence temperature. An active compost pile will be warm - frequently between 75 - 85 degrees. Every time you add fresh grass or kitchen waste you add some moisture retention to your compost pile. Moisture is provided by rain, but you may need to water or cover the pile to keep it damp. To test for adequate moisture, reach into your compost pile and grab a handful of material and squeeze it; if a few drops of water come out, it's probably got enough moisture, if it doesn't, add water.

Eliminate Odor - The most common problem is unpleasant, strong odors. To prevent this ensure a good flow of oxygen in the compost, don't overload the pile with food waste so that the food sits around too long, and if the bin contents become too wet add in more dry materials.

Home composting is both fun and easy to do, and does not require large investments of time, money and effort to be successful. Composting is an inexpensive, natural process that transforms your kitchen and garden waste into valuable food for your garden. Composting is a way to reduce the volume of organic wastes and return them to the soil to benefit growing plants. Your garden will love you for it.








Robert Schpok is an avid gardener who has used his gardening skills to greatly enhance his culinary techniques and ability to create great new recipes. Gain valuable gardening [http://www.got-eats.com/gardening.html] insight and make cooking fun at his newest site Got-Eats [http://www.got-eats.com/].


Sunday, October 17, 2010

Tumbleweed 200003 Rotating Compost Bin - Green

Tumbleweed 200003 Rotating Compost Bin - GreenThe brilliantly designed center pivoting composter produces up to 60 gallons of compost 4 times faster than any other. It mixes the compost simply by turning the composter on its centered pivoting stand. Accessible from either end too.

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How to Choose a Composter For Backyard Composting


Let's start our discussion of composters by establishing exactly what constitutes a composter. A composter is a bin or container in which organic waste material are placed to breakdown and decay through the process of decomposition. The result is a nutrient-rich compost, which is great to use in your flower beds or your garden. A composter can be as simple as a homemade compost bin made out of recycled pallets or it can be a manufactured compost bin or compost tumbler.

Two benefits of manufactured composters are they usually do a better job of keeping the critters out of your organic waste, and in most cases manufactured composters speed the composting processing by containing the heat generated by the composting process thereby speeding up the decomposition of your organic materials. Thus, you end up with compost for your garden more quickly than composting in a pile or heap and often with less effort.

What kinds of composters are available? Basically, composters come in three different types: compost bins, compost tumblers and worm composting bins. Each composter has its advantages and disadvantages.

The most basic composter is a compost bin. The average compost bin on the market is made out of heavy-duty plastic and is usually black or dark-green in color, which is great for retaining heat (remember heat is good to help speed up the composting process).

Compost bins are simple, easy to put together and are usually less expensive than compost tumblers. Most of the bins are no more than three feet high and are very unobtrusive and can be placed in a discreet location in your yard. Again, most manufactured compost bins have a lid to keep out varmints and some sort of door to allow access to the finished compost. One disadvantage is that it is sometimes difficult to turn or mix the compost materials. Turning or mixing the compost materials helps ensure more thorough composting. Compost bins hold an average of 80-160 gallons of compostable material and can produce finished compost in several months.

The next type of composter is a compost tumbler. A compost tumbler is usually a little more expensive than a compost bin, but it has definite advantages. A compost tumbler, as the name implies, allows the composting chamber to be turned on its axis, which makes for easy mixing of the organic materials. Compost tumblers can produce finished compost more quickly than most compost bins because of the ability to turn and mix the compost materials.

The only work required when composting with a compost tumbler is to give the compost tumbler a spin or two each week and when new organic material is added. Most compost tumbler hold similar volumes as compared to compost bins and can produce finished compost in several weeks.

The last type of composter is a worm composting bin. As you might suspect, worms are involved in the composting process with worm composting bins. The nice thing about a worm bin is that it can be used indoors. Now I know it sounds a little freaky to have worms in your house, but a worm bin is made to safely house the worms and compostable materials so that you don't have to worry about a smell or a mess.

The typical worm used in worm bins is a red brandling worm-the kind of worm most people use for fishing. The worm bin typically has several trays. The bottom tray is filled with moist bedding materials, such as shredded newspaper. Worms are then added and another tray is placed atop the tray containing the worms. In this tray you place your organic materials. The worms find their way into the upper tray and begin feasting on your garbage. The worms leave behind castings or worm poo, which is some of the most nutrient-rich compost available. After several weeks, these castings can be harvested and used in your garden.

The only concern with a worm bin is that you need to avoid temperature extremes if you keep your bin outside. It does not need to be in direct sunlight and as the evening temperature nears 40 degrees, it will be necessary to bring your worm bin into the garage or basement.

How much do I need to spend on a composter? The typical price range for a composter is from under $100.00 to around $400.00 depending on which model you purchase. Most compost bins are in the $100-$150 price range, and most compost tumblers are in the $200-$400 price range.

What is the best composter for me? To answer this question, you need to figure out what kind of composting method you might prefer. There are basically two kinds of composting methods-I call them the "patient composting method" and the "results-oriented composting method."

If you are the type of person who is not really in a hurry to have finished compost, and you are composting more out of a desire to do your part in helping the environment, you may want to consider some kind of compost bin. Compost bins fall under the "patient composting method" category because it usually takes several months before you have finished compost.

If, on the other hand, you are someone who wants to get on with things, you may want to consider a compost tumbler. Compost tumblers fall under the "results-oriented composting method" category because you can usually have finished compost in several weeks. For example, someone who is an avid gardener and wants a continuous supply of compost for his or her garden is one who should seriously consider a compost tumbler.

What composter do we recommend? I know you have a lot of information to think about, but we have some suggestions to help guide you in the right direction.


Cost Conscious Consumers may want to consider the Soil Saver Compost Bin
Value Conscious Consumers may want to consider the Tumbleweed Compost Tumbler or the Envirocycle Compost Tumbler
Quality Conscious Consumers may want to consider the Jora JK270 Composter, the Jora JK125 Composter

Start composting! We hope that you have found this information helpful in deciding which composter will suit your composting needs. As a final resource, we have compiled reviews of our top nine composters in our Composter Buying Guide.

There is a composter out there for everyone. Go find yours today! Good luck and happy composting. Remember, "Don't throw it away, compost it!"








GoodCompost.com is your source for composters and composting equipment, as well as composting know-how. We are here to help you get started composting at home today. Come by for a visit. http://www.goodcompost.com/


Saturday, October 16, 2010

Eco-Composting Love

Eco-Composting LoveATTENTION ALL ECO-LOVERS: Do You Want to Help The Environment And Save Money?

Do you love working with nature… Creating a garden... Keeping your yard looking nice... But hate the cost of fertilizer? …Do you want to help the environment by reducing your ecological footprint? If so, then you've found the right book!

Many people don't compost because they think it's smelly, messy and not worth it...But did you know that 20-30% of landfills are kitchen waste!

Imagine the impact on the environment if people just started composting their kitchen scraps alone...Not to mention ALL their organic waste!

And it doesn't have to be messy at all...In fact, with today's technology composting is clean and efficient...and you can compost as much or as little as you want!

You don't have to be a farmer with a giant composting bin to see the benefits. On the contrary, you can live in a house or an apartment and experience all the great advantages composting has to offer!

And once you get your composting bin started, composting doesn't cost you anything at all. It can actually start saving money.

Compost is the end product of organic decomposition. But this decomposed organic material is LOADED with nutrients other plants need to grow...

So basically, your kitchen scraps turn into FREE fertilizer!

Furthermore, composted fertilizer doesn't have all those potentially dangerous chemicals found in most store bought fertilizers.

That's not all...Composting material helps keep your soil soft and conditioned!

Once you get started, you can have almost a constant supply of FREE all natural fertilizer for your flowerbeds, lawn, or potted plants!

But unfortunately many people don't even know how to start composting - much less experiencing its benefits - because it's an enigma, relegated as something those "earthy" people do.

But Why Should Helping The Environment And Saving Money Just Be For The "Earthy" People?

Doesn't everyone want that?!

Not only that, but you can help keep landfills from becoming land-FILLED!

As you can see, composting isn't just for a few dedicated environmentalists - it can benefit everyone.

Going "green" is certainly the trend right now, so why not start by composting?

This is a complete guide to composting. It contains everything there is to know about composting in simple, understandable language so that you can easily learn things like:

- Composting Basics: Getting started composting on the right foot!
- What Makes Composting Work... A fascinating breakdown of how composting works, and why you want it!
- Keys to Great Composting ...fundamental principles on how to create the best compost!
- The 3 "R's" of Composting: You may have heard of these before... but never in a way that could save you money!
- A Quick Start To Composting... get started composting without all the fuss (and mess!) of learning it for yourself.
- Composting Recipes... the difference between good compost and smelly compost
- How To Use Your New Compost... see your gardens greener!
- Different Composting Bins... have the right bin for the right house and yield the most punch!
- How To Build A Composting Bin... customize your bin to your exact situation and get the most of your compost!
- Plus much, MUCH MORE!

This just scratches the surface of what’s in this book. If you've ever been interested in composting but didn't know where to start, then this book will help you get started on the right foot.

It contains everything you need to know to begin helping the environment AND save money today through effortless composting.

Price: $8.97


Click here to buy from Amazon

Friday, October 15, 2010

Organica Composter Activator

Organica Composter ActivatorContains select microbial species (bacteria and fungi) which accelerate the natural biodegration process of organic waste, even under a wide range of climactic conditions.

Price:


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Advantages of a Compost Pile


A hot compost pile can be a lot of hard work, so what are the advantages of a compost pile? There must be quite a few or they must be important because most gardeners have at least one on the go all the time. In fact, gardeners consider compost to be "black gold."


Composting will save you money. In the spring the garden centers open with fertilizers and soil amendments. Commercial farmers use chemical fertilizers so much that the soil is depleted and then complain about the high cost of fertilizer. Composting makes the fertilizer that plants need and in a form that is food for soil as well as plants. Your cost is kitchen and garden waste plus a bit of time.
Composting aids in recycling the waste from kitchen and garden as well as some paper waste. Apple peels, stale bread, leftovers gone bad, and any other plant material from the kitchen goes into the compost pile along with extra grass clippings, leaves, spent plants and any other yard and garden debris.
Compost will change your soil for the better. Chemical fertilizers work with high concentrations of salts that boost plant growth but do nothing for soil. The compost advantage is it works in lower concentrations but more of it and is good for the soil. Sandy soil will hold more water and keep nutrients next to plant roots where they are needed. Clay soil will be broken up and not let water pool which can drown plant roots. Instead the compost will allow the plants the nutrients and moisture they need.
Your soil will be healthier. Healthy soil means healthy plants. Hot composting pasteurizes weed seeds and destroys many plant pathogens.
Healthy plants from a compost rich diet repel insects naturally. Insects seek out weak or diseased plants because these are the easiest to eat. Healthy plants stay healthy because disease carrying insects feed on the weaker plants.
Worms love the compost and will move into the soil in large numbers. These soil critters aerate the soil, leave passage ways for water to trickle down, and produce their own rich plant food in the form of worm castings.
Composted soil requires less water. The compost serves as a water holder under the ground and compost as a mulch prevents evaporation.

Simply, the advantage of a compost pile is it will allow you to recycle waste into something that gives healthier soil, healthier plants, less watering and saves money in the bargain. A compost pile just makes sense.








Darrell Feltmate is an avid gardener who has been composting and gardening for over 25 years with gardens up to 1/2 acre and compost piles for each. His composting site may be found at Compost Central. You can be a master composter in no time at all.

Much of his compost uses wood shavings from his wood turning hobby. The site for wood turning may be found at Around the Woods.


Thursday, October 14, 2010

Exaco Trading EARTH Earthmaker 120-Gallon Three Stage Aerobic Composter

Exaco Trading EARTH Earthmaker 120-Gallon Three Stage Aerobic ComposterEarthmaker 3 - stage Compost Bin turns trash into treasure! Dumping yard refuse and food scraps in the trash not only wastes landfill space, it's a waste of money too! Don't believe me? Well, think about how much you spend on lawncare services or products every year. Sending organic waste to the dump means you're literally throwing out valuable nutrients you COULD be using to keep your yard and garden beautiful while also keeping money in your pocket. In fact, studies show that almost half of each trash bag you produce could be made into compost. So, why waste money AND pollute the air by having your waste transported elsewhere? The Earthmaker is a great way to go green AND save green! So how does it work? Simple. Earthmaker's patented three-stage process uses traditional three-bin composting, but stacked vertically so gravity does the hard work! A continuous cycle process keeps new material away from older material. Food and garden waste can be added at any time. Mature mulch or compost can be removed when convenient. And the push-pull tool makes it easy to mix and move material through the process without straining your back with heavy lifting and turning. It's basically like having 3 compost bins in one unit! More: 123 gallon capacity; Once the unit is working, Earthmaker can produce up to 10 gallons of compost each month; Swiveling lid keeps animals out; Made of durable polypropylene; Material aerates as it falls down the chambers, decomposing rather than rotting; Reduces smells, flies and greenhouse gases; Easy assembly! Clicks together with no tools; Measures 47 x 30" w., weighs 36 lbs. Compost the easy way and order your Earthmaker today! Earthmaker 3-stage Compost Bin

Price: $199.99


Click here to buy from Amazon

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Compost Bins - Take Care When Handling Compost, Follow These Handy Compost Tips


Many gardeners already know the value of the rich, dark, earthy material created by composting. It is one of the best mulches and richest fertilizers - and it's cheap. In fact, you can make it for free.

It works by providing food for microorganisms and these microorganisms produce nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus naturally for the soil, improving soil fertility.

Apart from being good for the environment, composting is also economically sensible, helping to reduce the pressure on landfills which, once full, pose problems for local government. It is not easy finding new sites for landfills.

Did you know that almost half of the average rubbish bag can be composted and most is not?

Given our environmental pressures this does not make sense. Worse still, when it comes to landfills garden waste and kitchen scraps break down into methane, a potentially explosive greenhouse gas, and leachate which can pollute our water. This is why composting - and recycling in a garden compost bin - is such a good thing to do for our environment.

However, if you are handling compost, you need to take some basic health and safety precautions. Garden compost contains various living organisms. On rare occasions, these have been associated with illness and allergies in humans particularly people with compromised immune systems or respiratory illness. And because of this, it is important to always:

1. Wash your hands after handling compost. Compost contains bacteria and this can react with your skin.

2. Wear proper protective gloves at all times, and especially if your skin is broken or if the garden compost is hot).

3. Avoid working with compost in confined spaces.

4. Keep your compost moist to prevent spores and dust flying in your face. (And it helps keep the bacteria composting because bacteria stops when it gets too dry.)

5. Wear a face mask.








Alan Paterson is the Managing Director of Compost Oven Pty Ltd, Australia's leading supplier of hot composting solutions. Do the right thing by the environment and talk to us about compost bins today.


Tuesday, October 12, 2010

N P K And Fall Lawn Fertilizer

N P K the main ingredients of lawn fertilizer. What do the letters stand for? Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium the food that feeds your lawn. The best time for lawn feeding is in the fall. Nitrogen is for shoot growth it stimulates your plants to produce more leaf growth and shoots.  Phosphorus stimulates the development of roots .  Potassium helps with stress to help plants recuperate .

Fall fertilizer  is probably the most important fertilizer application of the year for your lawn.  After a long hot summer the grass plants look forward to the cool of the fall and grow quickly. If you fertilize now you will have a much healthier lawn next spring.  A lot of people think that the lawn is just about done in October for the year the truth is that the important time is just beginning.  The roots start to grow and grow right into the winter. You may not see any growth on top but there is a lot going on down in the soil which will determine what your lawn will look like next spring.

A good quality lawn should be fertilized  4 times a year, around  May Day, Fathers Day, Labor Day, and Halloween. Use a good quality fertilizer with a slow release nitrogen and your lawn will grow healthy and be able to fight off not only pest and disease  but help crowd out weeds as well.


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The compost tea brewing manual

The compost tea brewing manualThe Compost Tea Brewing Manual

by Elaine Ingham

VERY POPULAR BOOK. One of our Best Sellers!!

Dr. Ingham's comprehensive manual on making, applying, and assessing compost tea is now available in its 5th edition. A must for any user of compost tea from backyard gardener to range manager. The New Edition includes up-to-date information on methods, research and practical examples.

Price:


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Monday, October 11, 2010

Sterling 463406 7-Cubic-Foot Roto Composter Jr.

Sterling 463406 7-Cubic-Foot Roto Composter Jr.EZCJR-BLK The Compost Wizard Jr. holds 7 cubic feet of compost and sits on a wheeled base. The handles provide excellent grip to make turning even easier compared to other models and crank versions. The 12'' twist off lid keeps your compost safely closed off but is easy to remove and even doubles as an extra turning point. The ends feature aeration holes which provide much needed airflow for the compost batch with the option of drilling more for those who live in areas with low air currents. The wheeled base allows owners to turn the bin effortlessly and can easily be separated to allow the compost bin to roll freely from place to place. The low profile ensures that it stays out of sight and won't be blown over in high winds like other compost tumblers. The resin material used to mold the compost bin is 100pct recycled and the rich dark color absorbs the sun's heat keeping your compost at a nice hot temperature (100-150 degrees F). Features: -Jr. compost tumbler in black. -Compost Wizard Collection. -7 cubic foot capacity. -Fully assembled - low maintenance. -Wheeled base. -Large 12'' twist lid. -Safe for pets and children. -Black color for heat absorption. -Makes compost in as little as two weeks. -Dimensions: 23.5'' H x 30'' W x 22'' D.

Price: $159.99


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Algreen 81002 Agua 50-Gallon Rain Water Collection and Storage System

Algreen 81002 Agua 50-Gallon Rain Water Collection and Storage SystemALG81002 Color: Terra Cotta Pictured in Terra Cotta Features: -Agua rain water collection and storage system. -Available in terracotta and dark brown color. -50 gallon capacity. -Made of a roto molded plastic. -Withstand extreme temperature and will not chip, crack or fade. -Unique planter design. -Corrosion proof screen guard. -Hook for hanging garden hose and a four foot garden hose with shut-off nozzle. -Dimensions: 33'' H x 23'' W x 23'' D.

Price: $99.99


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Sunday, October 10, 2010

Organic Gardener's Composting

Organic Gardener's CompostingIn these days of generalized eco-awareness, it is easy to forget that a few short years ago, home gardeners were among the worst environmental offenders, cheerfully poisoning anything that annoyed them with whatever dreadful chemical that came to hand, unconscious of the long-term effects on fauna and flora, water and soil. Now, thank goodness, many gardeners know that their mandate is to heal the bit of earth in their charge. Composting our home and garden wastes is one of the simplest and most beneficial things we can do, both to cut down the quantity of wastes we produce, and to restore health to the soil we garden upon I can think of no better guide to the principles and techniques of composting than Steve Solomon. Whether you live in an urban condo or farm many acres, you will find in these pages practical, complete and accessible information that serves your needs, served up with the warmth and gentle humor that characterizes everything Steve does.

Price: $4.88


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Saturday, October 9, 2010

Herb Gardening Secrets

New product. Everything there is to know about starting, growing and harvesting herb gardens. Culinary, medicinal and aromatic. This product has it all. 75% Commissions.


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Norpro Grip EZ Stainless Steel Compost Keeper

Norpro Grip EZ Stainless Steel Compost KeeperThe Grip-EZ Compost Pail is a stainless steel compost pail with a santoprene, comfort grip handle and knob. Attracively store your kitchen scraps in the Grip-EZ compost container until you have time to transfer them to your garden composter . The stainless steel compost pail can hold up to one gallon of food scraps and the tight fitting lid holds a charcoal filter for odor-free use.

Price: $49.99


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Friday, October 8, 2010

Tips on Composting


Tips on compost use


To improve the quality of the soil, add compost. It will improve the physical condition of the soil and will increase the fertility of the soil.
To reduce insect pests and disease infestation, add compost to the soil.
For your garden, spread compost one inch thick
When you use compost, you may also choose not to use any mulch.
Produce it easily at home, just by dumping all your plant parts, lawn clipping, and kitchen waste to a trench or bin.
If you have problem of poor water holding capacity in your garden, add compost to improve water retention capacity of the soil.
For erosion problem in the garden, use compost on it.
If you are in southern climate, you may need to use compost each year, as in southern climate it decomposes faster
In northern climate, compost decomposes slow, so you need to add more compost again after 2 years or more.
Do not use improperly made compost. If the compost is not well decomposed, do not use it, as it may contain germs and weed seeds.
Buy vermicompost from a reputed seller only.
If you are using mulches and amendments in your garden, use only half inch of compost
If the supply of the compost is less, then you can side dress it. Place it around plants or rows.
Side dressing can be best done in late spring and early summer
In case of side dressing, work out the compost one inch away from the stem.
For shallow rooted crops, just leave the compost on the soil.
If you are practicing organic cultivation, then also you can use compost in your garden. But for certification, prepare your own compost or buy a compost which has been certified as organic.
For better health of the lawn, top dress it with compost every year or two.
Apply compost in the fall for maximum effect. You can also use it in early spring.
Add compost to the hole made for planting seeds and seedlings.
Adding compost to the hole at the time of planting is beneficial for the perennials
For annuals, one dose of compost will be more beneficial.
Ask for expert advice. Expert will be able to help you in case you have any problem.








Bikash is a netpreneur and work from home business consultant. He manages online businesses and helps people to start their own business. He is also a writer and blogger. He writes for The Anti 9-5 Guide and Internet Startup


Herb Gardening Essentials

Herb Gardening Essentials Will Teach Readers How To Grow Flavorful Herbs in 7 Days or Less - Guaranteed. It Comes With 3 Bonus Ebooks and Pays 75% Commission.


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It's Leef Peeping SeasonA Guide to the Best Fall Foligage and Where to Find It.

You may be content to watch the seasons change in your own backyard, but if your yard isn't putting on quite the show, Steve Nix, About's Guide to Forestry, has a list of the 10 Best Places to See Fall Color in North American Forests as well as field guides and photo galleries to help you identify the trees that really dazzle.

Photo: ? Marie Iannotti


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Thursday, October 7, 2010

Daffodils - Narcissis

……daffodils, coreopsis, daylilies, Submitted by Vivian Martinez Louisville, KY/Zone 7 Zones: 4 - 11 Colors: Whites, yellows, pinks Height: 6 - 12" Width: 9 - 12" Bloom Period: Early - mid-Spring Exposure: Full Sun / Partial Shade Notes: All daffodils are narcissus, but not all narcissus are daffodils. Whatever you call them, they signal spring in many areas. Daffodils are deer and rodent resistant and many will naturalize over time. You can often tell where houses used to be, by the sweep of narcissus that were once planted along the foundation.

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Gardening in the shade

Guide - How to Garden in the shade


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Echinacea, Cone Flowers

I would say 'Coneflower' I don't say purple because there are so many new colors out now. It blooms all summer, here in Indiana, attracts butterflies and is a good cut flower. Submitted by Nancy

I live in Illinois (zone 5). I'm an avid perennial gardener thanks to their beauty and ease of care. For a sunny location I have to go with Purple Coneflower. They bloom all summer and attract birds (mostly finches) and butterflies. The birds like the seed heads in winter too. Submitted by Ron

Purple cone flower, long blooming and birds like the seeds. Submitted by Irene

Living in Wisconsin-there's nothing as easy to grow and showy as Coneflower. The blooms and foliage are great in summer. Seedheads provide great winter interest. Leave some in the fall. Finches and other birds will eat from them. They also will spread by reseeding and can be divided for more plants. Submitted by Sharon

Here in Southern Ontario Canada I love coneflowers. This year I put in some double ones and I can't wait to see how they bush out next year. Submitted by Lynda

The first plants that I purchased were two daylilys, a purple daisy, and catmint. They are still alive and hardy in an Edmonton winter. Zone 3 The catmint was almost devoured by my cats before I planted it and the cats love to eat them and roll around on them and they still survive. Submitted by bryan Zones: 2 - 10 Colors: Purple, Pink-Purple, White, Yellow, Orange (and more coming) Height: 2 - 3' Width: 2 - 3' Bloom Period: Mid-Summer - Fall Exposure: Full Sun / Partial Shade Notes: Deer resistant. Self-sows. Seeds are popular with birds.

Full Profile and Growing Suggestions for Echinacea (Coneflower)


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Lungwort / Bethlehem Sage - Pulmonaria

For those in deer country I'd go with Pulmonaria (Lungwort) - pink/blue flowers in the spring, great leaves and spreads without misbehaving (as opposed to my first choice, Columbine) Submitted by MargeB Zones: 4 - 9 Colors: White, Pink & Blue Height: 12 - 18" Width: 18 - 24" Bloom Period: Early to Mid-Spring Exposure: Shade / Partial Shade Notes: Some varieties change flower color from pink to blue, when pollinated. The foliage is often speckled or splashed with silver and remains attractive long after the flowers are gone.

Full Profile and Growing Suggestions for Pulmonaria (Lungwort)


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Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Presto Products GKL09515 Geobin Composting System

Presto Products GKL09515 Geobin Composting SystemLow-cost, easy solution to yard waste. Adjustable bin holds over 14 bushels of composting ingredients. Easy to assemble and maintain. Made of rugged lightweight plastic. Due to the number of air holes, composting process takes place quickly. Retains heat and moisture for faster decomposing. Adjustable to over 3' in diameter and 36" tall.

Price: $54.00


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Autumn Sage - Salvia greggii

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Two-Tone Rose

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Stone In The Garden

The use of stone in the garden is becoming more popular, pebbles especially with the wide range of shapes and sizes lend them selves well to the home landscape. If you have been thinking about the use of stones in your landscape I have a couple of suggestions on how to incorporate this attractive and durable material into your landscape.

Gravel Drives And Paths
A very attractive walking path or driveway can be made with the use pebbles.The heavier the traffic the more work that is involved. If you are going to receive a lot of use on a drive I suggest excavating down 10 to 12 inches and removing the soil then start with a layer of road fabric followed by a 3? layer of CA6 gravel. Compact the gravel with a vibratory roller then add a 2nd layer of the CA6. Compact this layer as well.Finally one more layer of the base material vibrate and rolled and you are ready for your 2? deep top layer of pebbles. Small pebbles or crushed granite work well the pebbles should be small and irregular shaped and not smooth. Be sure to really roll and vibrate this layer well to make sure you get a hard durable surface for you to drive over.

You will follow basically the same method for a path as the drive above but the excavation need only 6? deep with 2 layers of base 2? deep than the top layer of stone or pebbles. When installing a walk you can also install flagstone or stepping stone and use the gravel around them.

One important thing is a sturdy border to hold in the gravel so that it stays in place. Steel edging is the best it is easy to install and holds up well.

Mulch Your Beds With Pebbles

A great use for pebbles is mulching your planting beds. If done correctly not only will you have very attractive beds but it will reduce the number of weeds that will germinate substantially . The important thing is to level the area after you have prepared the sight and lay down a heavy commercial grade landscape fabric. Once it is place use ground pins to hold it in place. Now you are ready to plant. Lay out the plants and arrange them the way you want them. Pick up each plant one at a time and cut a big x in the fabric , fold the fabric back and install your plant. Now just fold your fabric back around your plants. Once everything is planted use a blower to make sure that there is no soil on top of the fabric. This is the most important step. Once the area is clean spread at least 2? of pebbles over the area. Now you will not only have a beautiful bed but very few weeds will germinate in the pebbles and they few that do can easily be pulled out.

Build A Japanese Garden

Japanese Gardens are tranquil and peaceful retreats. This type of garden relies heavily on the use of rocks plants and water to create a calm environment. Using specific plants and style usually a small garden it is a part of the overall garden plan. These are meant to be a small and secluded area. With a little research I am sure that you can come up with a design that will fit your site. Just remember that these gardens are not overly planted but everything is in balance.

Decorative Pots And Urns

When using decorative pots and urns in the garden you can highlight them and make them stand out by placing them on a base of decorative stone or pebbles. Choose colors that complement the colors of the pot or urn to blend into the surrounding garden. This is also a great way to feature your urns and to call attention by placing stone that contrast the color of the urn thus drawing the eye towards the urn.

Another great idea is to place a large urn on a bed of pebbles and use it as a water feature. There are many urns set up as water features available at most good garden centers that include a small recirculating pump and base to hold the water as well. The sounds of water in a garden lend a feeling of peace and harmony to any garden and if placed close to a bench or seating area invites visitors to stay and enjoy the garden.

When choosing stone or pebbles for your garden be sure to wet them to see what there true color is. Most stone has dust on it due to the way it is handled and packaged. By wetting the stone you will get a true vision of what it will look like once it is installed and washed. You will truly be amazed at the colors that are found in rocks and pebbles and will really get excited over their use and possibilities of decorative in your garden.


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Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Marigolds

Marigolds are cheerful, compact yellow, orange and burgundy annuals with flower shapes that can resemble daisies, coreopsis and carnations. Marigolds are not fussy. Any good garden soil and a little water during dry spells should keep them happy.

Maintenance: Marigolds are very pest free. In fact, they are often used to keep pests away. They will get powdery mildew in damp or humid summers. Planting in full sun, with air flow, will lessen the problem.

Deadheading will prolong the bloom period.


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Preventing Weeds

Too Many Weeds Come into the Garden with New Plants. Too Many Weeds Come into the Garden with New Plants.

Photo: © Marie Iannotti (2007) licensed to About.com, Inc.

A better idea than pulling weeds is to keep them out of your garden in the first place. You can't stop every bird from dropping a weed seed here and there, but there are several things you can do to limit the amount of weeds brought into your garden and prevent weeds from getting out of control. Border Patrol: Inspect all new plants for hitchhiking weeds. The longer a plant sits in a pot at the nursery, the more likely a weed seed will settle in and germinate. Make sure you don’t plant the weed along with the plant you’ve bought. Don’t Disturb: Keep cultivation to a minimum. There are always weed seeds in the soil, but many will not germinate unless they are exposed to sunlight. While some scratching and cultivating of the soil around plants is good to keep the soil from compacting, frequent cultivating just leads to more weeds. You are better off applying an organic mulch and letting the earth worms do the cultivating for you. To Till or Not to Till?: For years tilling has been recommended for clearing a new garden bed. Tilling is a quick way to break up the soil and incorporate some of the green material into the bed, but you’ll never get rid of all the existing plants that way. And just like with shallow cultivating, you are also turning up buried weed seeds that will sprout now, with exposure to the sun. If you do chose to cultivate, it’s easier to do when the ground is damp, but not too wet or the soil will stick together. Cover Up: Mulches are still one of the best ways to keep weeds from taking over your garden. Mulches, whether organic or synthetic, will smother weed seeds, while cooling the soil and retaining moisture. Remember that mulches will also smother seeds of self-seeding plants that you might want as volunteers in your garden. If so, don’t mulch until later in the spring, when you can see which young seedling you want to keep and which should be weeded out and covered.

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Herb Gardening Secrets

New product. Everything there is to know about starting, growing and harvesting herb gardens. Culinary, medicinal and aromatic. This product has it all. 75% Commissions.


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David Austin English Rose & Rosa x centifolia (Cabbage Rose, Provence Rose)

We have all forgotten the garden Queen, Roses, yes some are fussy but the "English Roses" are a breeze to grow and come in just about every size and color. Merry Christmas to all and don't forget to add stuff for your favorite gardener to your list. Submitted by Gail P

Here in Illinois even in the winter, I enjoy my Cabbage Rose, can take sun or shade. Grows to a plump small bush size. Submitted by Linda

David Austin English Rose Zones: 5 - 9 Colors: White, Pink, Coral, Yellow & Red Height: 18" - 4' Width: 3 - 4' Bloom Period: Summer (Repeat Bloomers) Exposure: Full Sun Notes: David Austin crossed roses with old-fashioned fragrance and modern disease resistance to come up what many consider the perfect garden rose. New introductions come out yearly.

Rosa x centifolia, Cabbage Rose, Provence Rose Zones: 4 - 9 Colors: White, Pink & Red Height: 5' Width: 4' Bloom Period: Summer Exposure: Full Sun Notes: Dense, double blossoms with a wonderful rich fragrance.

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Gardening With Herbs

Gardening With Herbs is an informational site about setting up and creating your very own Herb Garden. It is full of essential and vital information on how to get started straight away. 80 page ebook "The Secrets Of Herb Gardening"


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Monday, October 4, 2010

Peonies (Paeonia)

Granted it's got a relatively short bloom season, but for it's spectacular flowers, robust foliage and near-immortality, I've got to put a plug in for peonies. Submitted by Lawrence

Peonies, zinnia, lilies, lilies of the valley, African daisies, sun-glo, there are many! but mostly I'd say test your soil before you kill your roses with acid soil or broil your Hostas in the full sun. Submitted by Joan

Peony "Scarlett O'Hara", a beautiful red single. Even better in a small group. Submitted by Gina Zones: 3 - 8 Colors: Whites, Pinks, Reds Height: 2 - 3' Width: 2 - 3' Bloom Period: Late Spring / Early Summer Exposure: Full Sun / Partial Shade Notes: Long-lived plants that hate to be disturbed.

Full Profile and Growing Suggestions for Paeonia (Peony)


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Clematis

I find Hostas and Dicentra bleeding heart and clematis(Jackmanii)are the best for my garden in northern Ontario Canada zone 4-5. Also love hollyhocks easy growing and beautiful to look at.

Clematis, queen of vines, are divided into 3 categories: Early Flowering, Late Flowering and Repeat Bloomers. Pruning can be confusing, but you'll find guidelines here. Zones: Generally 4 - 9 Colors: White, Pink, Yellow, Purple, Burgundy Height: 8 - 10' Width: 3' Bloom Period: Depends on variety Exposure: Full sun, but roots need to be shaded or mulched. Notes: The old saying goes: Head in the sun, feet in the shade. Clematis will climb toward the sun, but they like their roots cool. That's why they grow so well under other plants, like roses.

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Gardening Question of the Week: How Do You Store Your Tender Bulbs for the Winter?

While gardeners in zones 8 and above can grow dahlias, cannas, caladiums and their tender cousins year round, northern gardeners will need to dig and store these plants to overwinter them. And since the first frosts are beginning to hit, the task can't be put off much longer. It's not one of gardening's more pleasant jobs, but the payoff is worth the effort. While there are no absolute rules for overwintering tender bulbs, corms, rhizomes and tubers, here are some guidelines and safeguards to make your efforts more successful. Better still, here's a video to show you how.

Photo: ? Marie Iannotti (2008 licensed to About.com, Inc.


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Exaco Trading ECO-2000 2.4 Gallon Kitchen Compost Waste Collector

Exaco Trading ECO-2000 2.4 Gallon Kitchen Compost Waste CollectorStart making your own compost by collecting and using your organic Kitchen scraps. As much as 30% 0f household waste can be composted and should not be sent into a landfill -composting is the answer - and using the Kitchen Compost Collector is the most practical way to collect all your organic waste.

Price: $19.99


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Sunday, October 3, 2010

Papaver nudicaule, Iceland poppy, Arctic Poppy

Zone 3 - Calgary Alberta Canada - poppies ! Submitted by Coline Bettson

In the Colorado Rockies at high altitude and zone 3…..Columbines and Icelandic poppies. Our residence has been lived in by three generations of the same family. These Columbines and Poppies (some planted by grandmother, bed expanded and more added by mother) have been thriving and reseeding without much care since probably the 1960's! Easy, perfect perennial for our area and great color. Submitted by Nancy Zones: 3 - 10 Colors: White, Yellow & Orange Height: 18 - 24" Width: 12 - 18" Bloom Period: Late Spring / Early Summer Exposure: Full Sun Notes: All parts of this plant are poisonous. Start from seed scattered either in the fall or in the spring before the last frost.

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Brussels Sprouts

Brussels Sprouts Grow All Along the Stem. Growing Brussels Sprouts

Photo Provided by Debbie Schiel / stock.xchng.Brussels Sprouts are a long season crop that actually tastes better when hit with a slight frost. So although they are a late harvest, they are a relatively long one. Because of their fondness for cool weather, Brussels Sprouts are a fall crop in warmer climates. As with broccoli, warm weather and long days will cause the “sprouts” to open and be unsuitable for eating.
Brassica oleracea
Brussels Sprouts
Annual
2-3' (60 to 90 cm) tall x 8 - 12" (20-30 cm) W. Sprouts are about 1- 1 ½” (25 to 40 mm) in diameter
Full sun to Partial Shade
Begins about 3 months, from transplant
Named after the city of Brussels, Brussels sprouts were first made popular in Belgium, where they’ve been grown since about 1200. The sprouts are buds that grow in the axils of each leaf. They look like tiny cabbages and are considered a type of wild cabbage. The plant itself looks like a small palm tree and the sprouts grow along the trunk-like stem. The green variety is the most commonly grown, but there are red Brussels sprouts too.

Soil: Brussels sprouts like a sweet or slightly alkaline soil. Soil pH should be at least 6.5. A good amount of organic matter will help maintain the moisture they need for their intense growth.

When to Plant: In colder climates, start seeds indoors and set outside when there’s no threat of a hard frost. Be sure to allow the full time outdoors for required days to harvest.

In warmer climates, fall planting is preferred. You should be able to direct seed in mid-summer for a late fall/winter harvest. You may also be able to squeeze in a second, early spring crop, direct seeding in February and harvesting in May. Hot climates where the temperature never approaches freezing are not really suitable for growing Brussels sprouts.

Seeding: Direct seed in warm areas. Otherwise start seed indoors approximately 5-7 weeks before last expected frost. Cover seeds with 1/4 - ½” soil and keep moist. Transplant when the seedlings are about 3" tall. Don’t allow seedlings to become root bound or the plant will remain stunted when transplanted.

Transplanting: Brussels sprouts like the soil around them to be firm, but not compacted. Pat it down lightly.

Spacing: Space plants about 2' apart with 3' between rows or stagger plants 2' apart in each direction, for a grid.

Feeding: Fertilizing twice a season (once when the plants are about 12" high and again about a month before harvest) is often recommended, but if you have a fertile soil to begin with, it doesn’t seem to be necessary. I prefer a slow release granular fertilizer that feeds most of the season.

Tip: When the Brussels sprout plants are small, you can plant a short season crop between the rows. Bush peas and beans are a good choice, because they provide extra nitrogen to the soil.

Brussels Sprouts are prone to the same problems as cabbage and broccoli. The most common pests are: Cabbage looper, imported cabbage worm, cabbage root maggot, aphids, and Harlequin bug. Since this is a late season crop, you have time to monitor for problems before the crop develops.

Diseases include: blackleg, black rot and clubroot. Disease control is best obtained by rotating the crop each year. Clubroot is diminished when you raise the soil pH to about 7.0.

Each sprout grows in the leaf axil or joint. They begin maturing from the bottom of the plant upwards. You can start harvesting when the lower sprouts reach the size of large marbles. Just be sure to pick before they get too large and start cracking and turning bitter. Some people prefer to cut, rather than pull the sprouts. Pulling is easier if you remove the leave below the sprout first, then twist and pull the sprout. Each plant yields approximately a quart of sprouts total.

To extend the harvest in cold seasons, mulch plants with straw and/or cover with a row cover for protection. Whole plants can be pulled, potted and stored in a root cellar. Bare root plants can be stored in a cool cellar for an additional 2-3 weeks of harvest.

A second crop may begin to grow at the base of the stem. These will not be as tight as the first buds, but they are still edible.

The leafy tops are also edible and can be cooked as greens. Cutting the tops is a good way to speed up the development of the remaining sprouts, at the end of the season.
‘Bubbles’ F1 (85-90 days) Early and easy. Tolerates heat and drought. 2" sprouts. Resistant to Powdery Mildew & Rust. ‘Jade Cross’ F1 and ‘Jade Cross E’ F1(90 days) Jade Cross was a 1959 All-America Selections Winner. Both are compact plants good for windy locations. Sprout are slightly larger on Jade Cross E. Good disease resistance. ‘Long Island Improved’ OP (90 days) High yield. Another small plant that stands up to wind. Freezes well. ‘Oliver’ F1 (85 days) Early producer. Easy to pick, 1" sprouts. Compact, disease resistant plants. ‘Royal Marvel’ F1 (85 days) Early and productive. Resistant to bottom rot and tip burn. ‘Rubine’ (85 - 95 days) Red Plants. Late maturing and lower yield than green varieties, but good flavor. 1 ½” sprouts. Heirloom

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Achla CMP-05 Spinning Horizontal Composter

Achla CMP-05 Spinning Horizontal ComposterCMP-05 Features: -Horizontal. -Made from recycled plastic. -Seven cubic feet capacity. -Minimizes landfill waste. -Rodent proof. -Easy access sliding door. -Mixing fins break up clumps. -Turn kitchen and yard waste into fertilizer. -Natural gas which is typically used to make fertilizers. -Dimensions: 38'' H x 29-31'' W x 29-31'' D.

Price: $149.99


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Compost

Definition:

Compost is the poster child of organic matter. Compost is any kind of decayed organic matter. You can make your own or buy it by the bag or truckload. Finished compost looks like rich soil. It’s dark and crumbly with an earthy smell.

By the time the compost cooking process is complete, weed seeds, fungus spores and other undesirable elements that may have gone into your compost bin, should no longer be viable. Compost can be added to your gardens at anytime, either turned into the soil or used as a mulch or top dressing.

While it is advised that you keep perennial weeds, pesticide treated material and diseased plants out of your compost bin, most every other form of plant material is fair game. Grass clippings Leaves Garden Waster (from weeding, deadheading, pruning...) Vegetable Peels Sawdust Straw Paper

Creating a New Garden


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Meadow Sage - Salvia nemorosa

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Saturday, October 2, 2010

Palmate Leaves

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How to Use a Compost Tumbler


Compost is also known as black gold and it is very essential to any garden and its gardener. A compost pile is a very good thing to have especially if you are an organic gardener. As an organic gardener you can use the compost pile to add rich and organic nutrients into your soil. The compost pile can make a huge difference when it comes to improving your garden soil. Making a compost pile can be quite tedious and very tiring. It can be quite difficult and cumbersome to make. Making it can be very difficult and this is so true especially if you are doing it manually. Turning and flipping the pile manually can be quite tedious and traumatic. Not only is it very laborious but you will also have to deal with terrible smells, bugs, and pests.

When it comes to compost pile requirements the best solution is getting a compost tumbler. A compost tumbler will take care of all your compost needs. Even though compost tumblers tend to cost quite a bit of money they are definitely worth it and they make gardening easier and simpler. They are also easy to use and are eco friendly. There are quite a number of advantages and benefits of using a compost tumbler. The main benefit and advantage of using a compost tumbler is that unlike the traditional compost piles they are much more eco friendly and they occupy much less space. Since they occupy much less space they can be used in small yards and in slightly confined places unlike the traditional ones.

Another major advantage of a compost tumbler is that they keep unwanted pets and animals out of your compost pile. This is very important when it comes to compost. A compost tumbler also greatly reduces the smell and this is huge advantage over the traditional composts. The smell of traditional composts is very bad and it can be quite potent so the reduced smell of the compost tumbler is very welcome. Since compost tumblers come in various sizes they can be used anywhere which makes them ideal for places with patios, small yards, and apartments with small gardens and so forth. Small animals and pets are also not attracted to compost tumblers unlike the traditional composts will be out in the open. Another reason why small pets and animals are not attracted to compost tumblers is because the smell is reduced or totally eliminated.

Knowing how to use a compost tumble is very important and by using it properly you will be able to get the best and maximum compost results in the shortest time possible. You need to make sure that you only place soft items and material in the tumbler, nothing hard or anything difficult to crush. Secondly you need to make sure that you only add organic matter and organic material which will quickly break down. No cabbages, hard stalks or anything else similar to these things should be put inside the tumbler. Only use items that have soft leaves, coffee grounds, grass clippings, and similar items. You must use items that can be easily turned and converted into compost.

Make sure that the contents of the tumbler are soft and moist. They must not be wet or totally dry but moist. Moisture is needed in order to get the best compost results. The final step involves rotating the compost bin on regular basis. This should be done every few days and before long you will have great compost.








About the Author- Becki Andrus has all the information you need about healthy eating habits. Visit her website and find out how you can implement easy, small steps to improve your health and have more energy: http://EverydayHealthGirl.com


Take the Name Literally

Egyptian Walking Onions aren't the big, round globes you think of as onions. Egyptian Walking Onions are much smaller bulbs that offer the double bonus of forming smaller bulblets on top of their stems in clusters, kind of like a freaky flower head. You can eat either end, but usually you eat the bulbs from the ground and plant the bulblets for more onions. They get the moniker Walking because if you don't harvest the bulbs, these perennial plants will walk their way across your garden.

They have onion flavor, but more interest. Egyptian Walking Onions are a good way to entice your kids into the grown-up world of seasoned foods.

Tips for growing great onons.


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Fall Garden Tasks

Gardening in the fall is a great time to look back on your garden success, but there's still time left for most of us to do some last minute garden maintenance. Fall gardening takes advantage of cooler temperatures and less bugs. Putting the garden to bed isn't nearly as hectic as waking it up in the spring. Here are some tasks to do now, to make next year's garden even better.

1. Enrich garden beds with compost or manure.

2. Collect dried seed from open pollinated flowers & veggies.

3. Clean bird feeders to get them ready for use.

4. Gather herbs, seed heads and flowers for drying.

5. Clean out cold frames for winter use.

6. Cover water gardens with netting to keep the falling leaves out.

7. Keep trees and shrubs well watered until the ground freezes.

8. Cut back most perennials. Definitely cut back diseased perennials and remove all foliage. Don’t compost.

9. Clean, sand and oil garden tools before storing them for the winter.

10. Take cuttings.


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Compost Tools for Added Help


Compost tools are sometimes needed for the gardener now that composting has become very popular. Getting your hands on the proper compost tools so as to manage your own organic material will lessen the waste that we send to our landfills and give your landscaping and gardens the benefit of organic compost.

Compost pails are handy little containers for collecting kitchen scraps. These containers are generally small pails that are made of ceramic or chrome that can sit on a counter top and will hold about a gallon of vegetable and fruit scraps. These are air tight with a carbon filter that will eliminate any odors. These handy compost containers will hold several days' worth of scraps before taking that trip to the compost pile.

There are several compost turning tools that can be used for turning your compost pile. Two of the most popular tools used are the compost fork and the compost aerator. The aerator is very often called a compost turning tool and bears a resemblance to a rod that has wing-like appendages located on the bottom. When you plunge this tool into the compost pile, the plunging motion and the wings will turn and aerate the pile simultaneously. In order for the pile to compost properly there needs to be adequate aeration throughout. ?

The compost fork is quite similar to the pitchfork. It allows you to pick up, mix, turn, and aerate the pile. A five or six prong hay-fork with a long handle is probably better than a four prong digging fork that has a short handle. This allows moving more compost per scoop without very much resistance. The short handle digging fork is best used when adding the compost to your garden. ?

You want a sturdy wheelbarrow that will last you for many years.? The steel wheelbarrow is sturdy and heavy-duty but it will rust if left outdoors. This wheelbarrow needs to be kept dry and stored away after each use to prevent rusting. A heavy-duty plastic barrow might be a better choice. With either wheelbarrow you need to be sure the tires have a valve so you can pump in air and they are both great for carrying the compost where you need it.

Leaf collection tools are actually leaf scoops that are used to pick up huge amounts of leaves in one quick swipe. There are also electric leaf shredders for shredding and placing the leaves into a bag. A shredder creates smaller pieces which helps the compost break down. Bio bags are bags for the leaves that can be thrown in its entirety into the compost. The bags are biodegradable and can be used for organic scraps or grass clippings.

Compost starter is a very natural substance that activates your compost pile. It helps with the decomposition startup time and the digestion of organic waste. The compost starter is usually available in small containers and takes only a few ounces that are mixed with water to be spread evenly on top of the compost pile. This mixture can treat approximately 1,000 pounds of waste.

Compost sifters or screens are valuable additions to any garden collection of tools for sifting topsoil to rid out the grit and for sifting compost. For example, your compost is ready but it seems to be lumpy and you wanted a finer grain; this is when you want to use a sifter. Compost does not flow as easy as grain or gravel and it will generally clog the sifter when it is wet. It is better to allow the compost to dry out before trying to sift it. Generally speaking the compost sifter is easy to clean and you also can use it to separate debris from any soil.

Compost thermometers are handy and necessary tools for a successful compost pile. The progress of a compost pile depends on how hot or cold a pile gets. The compost thermometer will tell you how active, hot, or steady a compost pile is. This way you will be aware of how well your pile is performing, and will help to answer any questions you have relating to the moisture and composition time. Using a compost thermometer will guarantee the compost pile is at the perfect temperature for breaking down all the organic material.

These are just some compost tools that will help to attain a successful compost pile. There are others such as sprayers, shovels, and water hoses that come in handy for composting along with regular gardening.








Barbara has done recent research on compost tools and found some to be very handy. Visit her website Gardeners Garden Supplies for more interesting gardening ideas.